This video demonstrates how to polish and protect aluminum snowmobile tunnels with the SledBrite Metal Polish. Prior to polishing and protecting your aluminum snowmobile tunnels it is recommended to first remove any grease and surface build up and clean and deoxidize the snowmobile tunnel or metal surface. Cleaning and deoxidizing your tunnels prior to polishing is an important step. Using a snowmobile aluminum cleaner will remove oxidation and discoloration from tunnels, aluminum and metal on your snowmobile. This not only cleans the tunnel, removing rust and impurities in the aluminum, but it allows the metal polish to polish the tunnels faster and easier and helps the shine last longer. You can polish over oxidation, but the shine will tarnish faster and it may not apply as easy.

Start by shaking SledBrite Metal Polish well to activate before and during application. For best results, apply SledBrite Metal Polish with Biokleen Polishing Ball: not only will using the polishing ball take out most of the elbow grease needed to polish metal, but the speed of the revolutions and the ability to apply slight pressure without much force allows you to polish the metal faster, more efficiently and, in most cases, allows you to use less metal polish per application.

Always use Polishing Ball with drill in forward, or clockwise, direction. Place two to four dime-size drops of metal polish proportionally across the ball for initial application. Add one to two additional drops as needed for the application. Start by using the drill at slow speeds until polish is absorbed, then increase speed. Polish tunnel, in sections, until surface turns black. There may be some areas of the tunnel where hand application of the metal polish is needed.

Buff off aluminum tunnel with an additional Polishing Ball or a clean, dry terry cloth towel for a brilliant shine. Repeat this process across the entire tunnel (typically only 2-3 sections, sometimes even just one). Always use precaution when using hand tools. Always wear protective eyewear.

For polishing metals by hand: Place a clean, dry terry cloth towel over mouth of SledBrite Metal Polish bottle – flip bottle over; using that dime-sized spot, rub metal vigorously until surface turns black. Buff off metal surface with an additional clean, dry terry cloth towel for a brilliant shine.

Materials Needed:

* (1) Clean Shop Rag
* (1-2) Bio-Kleen Polishing Balls
* SledBrite Metal Polish

1. Clean and degrease tunnels first with SledBrite Belly Pan Cleaner
2. Clean and deoxidize tunnels SledBrite Aluma Kleen
3. Shake SledBrite Metal Polish well to activate before and during applications.
4. Always use Biokleen Polishing Ball with drill in forward, or clockwise, direction. Place two to four dime-size drops of metal polish proportionally across the ball for initial application. Add one to two additional drops as needed for the application.
5. Start by using the drill at slow speeds until polish is absorbed, then increase speed. Polish metal until entire section of tunnel turns black.
6. Buff off metal with an additional Biokleen Polishing Ball or a clean, dry terry cloth towel for a brilliant shine. Always use precaution when using hand tools. Always wear protective eyewear.

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1. Cleaning & Brightening Snowmobile Tunnels: Sled Detailing Step 3 Snowmobile aluminum cleaner is used to clean, brighten and remove...
2. Cleaning & Removing Oxidation from Snowmobile Aluminum: Sled Detailing Step 2 Snowmobile aluminum cleaner is used to remove oxidation from aluminum...

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This video demonstrates how to clean, remove oxidation and discoloration and brighten aluminum snowmobile tunnels with the SledBrite Aluma Kleen aluminum cleaner. Prior to cleaning, brightening and removing oxidation from your aluminum snowmobile tunnels you must first remove any grease and surface build up. This is important as the aluminum tunnel cleaner needs to come into contact with the actual surface of the aluminum without any barriers which would prohibit the deoxidizing action.

Aluminum naturally oxidizes and will begin to look dingy, splotchy and discolored if not maintained properly. Snowmobile aluminum and snowmobile tunnels have a tendency to oxidize much faster because of the exposure to the elements, moisture and road salt.

Simply spray SledBrite Aluma Kleen on starting from the bottom and working your way upward, wait for it to foam up (taking anywhere from 15 seconds to a few minutes, depending on the severity of oxidation) and wipe or rinse off. It is also recommended to use a brush, not to scrub with pressure, but to spread the product around to ensure even coverage. The nice thing about the SledBrite Aluma Kleen is it also contains corrosion inhibitors to help prevent rust and protect your sleds tunnel, aluminum and metals.

Materials Needed:

* (1) Clean Shop Rag
* (1) Cleaning Brush
* SledBrite Aluma Kleen Aluminum Cleaner
* SledBrite Belly Pan Snowmobile Cleaner Degreaser

1. Clean and degrease surface first with SledBrite Belly Pan Cleaner
2. Spray SledBrite Aluma Kleen across surface of aluminum starting at the bottom and working upward
3. Allow dwell time of 15 seconds to a few minutes depending on severity of oxidation
4. Lightly agitate areas with brush to ensure even coverage of cleaner
5. Wipe clean with shop rag or Microfiber Towel

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1. Cleaning & Removing Oxidation from Snowmobile Aluminum: Sled Detailing Step 2 Snowmobile aluminum cleaner is used to remove oxidation from aluminum...

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This next video in our Snowmobile Detailing Series demonstrates how to clean, remove oxidation and discoloration and brighten aluminum parts, including ski attachments, on a snowmobile with the Aluma Kleen aluminum cleaner by SledBrite. Prior to removing oxidation from your aluminum you must first remove any grease and surface build up. This is important as the aluminum cleaner needs to come into contact with the actual surface of the aluminum without any barriers which would prohibit the deoxidizing action.

Aluminum naturally oxidizes and will begin to look dingy, splotchy and discolored if not maintained properly. Snowmobile aluminum has a tendency to oxidize much faster because of it’s exposure to the elements, moisture and road salt. The SledBrite Aluma Kleen proved to be a very safe, easy to use product to clean and brighten aluminum and metal surfaces on the sled (it can also be used on your trailer and accessories).

So here’s the process of cleaning your aluminum. Spray SledBrite Aluma Kleen on, wait for it to foam up (taking anywhere from 15 seconds to a few minutes, depending on the severity of oxidation) and wipe or rinse off. The makers of SledBrite also recommended to use a brush, not to scrub with pressure, but to spread the product around to ensure even coverage. Not only is the SledBrite Aluma Kleen a fast acting, biodegradable formula that wipes or rinses away clean, but it also contains corrosion inhibitors to help prevent rust and protect your sleds metal and aluminum. Bonus!

Materials Needed:

* (1) Clean Shop Rag
* (1) Small Cleaning Brush or Toothbrush
* SledBrite Aluma Kleen Aluminum Cleaner
* SledBrite Belly Pan Snowmobile Cleaner Degreaser

1. Clean and degrease surface first with SledBrite Belly Pan Cleaner
2. Spray SledBrite Aluma Kleen across surface of aluminum
3. Allow dwell time of 15 seconds to a few minutes depending on severity of oxidation
4. Agitate areas with brush to ensure even coverage of cleaner
5. Wipe clean with shop rag or Microfiber Towel

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This video demonstrates how to remove heavy build up and grease from snowmobile skis and attachments with the SledBrite Belly Pan Snowmobile Cleaner Degreaser. This is an important step in the snowmobile cleaning and detailing process and should be one of the first steps taken. You want to be sure to clean and degrease the entire sled prior to cleaning and brightening any aluminum or metals, including these ski attachments, snowmobile tunnels and engine parts.

This is especially important in an area such as this where there is heavy grease or build up. If the build up is not removed prior to applying an aluminum cleaner, the aluminum cleaner will not be able to come in contact with the actual surface of the aluminum, therefore preventing it from cleaning and deoxidizing the aluminum.

Materials Needed:

* (2) Clean Shop Rags
* (1) Small Cleaning Brush or Toothbrush
* SledBrite Belly Pan Snowmobile Cleaner

1. Remove heavy contact grease from surface with shop rag
2. Spray SledBrite Belly Pan Snowmobile Cleaner across surface, including ski and attachments
3. Allow dwell time of 30 seconds to a few minutes depending on severity of grease build up
4. Agitate areas with brush to break up build up
5. Wipe clean with second shop rag or Microfiber Towel

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We’re talking about the black streak remover from Biokleen (Bio-Kleen Products) makers of environmentally safe cleaning products for nearly every industry, but specializing in marine, rv and snowmobile cleaning. We ran across some live demonstration video taken at an RV dealer interested in carrying the Biokleen products. Needless to say they are stocking the products today. The video is pretty good, though the gonzo filming is a little hard to watch. But it’s still not as impressive as seeing your worst black streak stains, even ones you’ve tried to clean with other cleaners, wipe off with ease with this cleaner.

First see the black streak remover easily remove the tough, set-in black stains on the white rubber trim found around all RV and camper windows, doors and hatches. This is a common problem area for removing black streaks on RVs and campers and this demonstration seems to really impress the prospective dealer in the background. Next they use the all purpose RV cleaner, Bio-Kleen Amazing Cleaner, to clean the dirt, grime and black streaks from a plastic hatch found on the camper.

In the next video see how the black streaks on the RV exterior are easily wiped away with the black streak remover. No brushes or water are used to assist in removing the black streaks, just spray the cleaner on and wipe clean with a towel. You can see the how black streak remover can safely clean the black streaks from vinyl decals, found on nearly all RVs and campers, with no damage.

The Bio-Kleen Black Streak Remover not only is the absolute best, quickest and most efficient black streak remover that we’ve found, but it’s also a great multi purpose cleaner and degreaser for your RV, camper, trailer and garage. Excellent for a number of household jobs: cleaning vinyl and aluminum siding, gutters and eves, engine and garage cleaning and degreasing, cleaning parts and tools and more. A great all around cleaner to have around the house and shop.

The Bio-Kleen Amazing Cleaner is also an extremely impressive cleaner and does a lot more than just clean camper hatches as seen in the video: it’s a great all purpose cleaner for your RV, boat, car or anywhere around the house or garage. It excels at cleaning and lifting up dirt and stains from vinyl, leather and fabrics. Not only will it remove exterior black streaks and grime from an RV as seen in this video, but it will remove the chalk residue on rubber RV roofs, cleans and removes mold and mildew stains and helps break down insect debris on the front of your vehicle.

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It is significantly wiser to have ultraviolet rays, ozone, acid rain, tree sap, insects, bird hits, road tar, and all the other road hazards attack a coat of polish than attack your paint. By using a polymer polish on finish of your automobile will have a high gloss shine and a long lasting, protective shield against all of those road hazards. Apply polymer polish the windshield or windows and rain beads up and rolls off for an ultimate clear view. Incorporated polymers create and retain the hard, high gloss surface sealing the moisture out.

Apply the wax polish with a slightly dampened cloth or applicator, we recommend dampening applicator first with a spray wax. Apply sparingly (a little goes a long way) and evenly by hand or orbital using overlapping circular motions. Your paint will only accept a certain amount of polish and when you apply more than that it is just removed during buffing. After applying, let dry to a haze. When using a polymer polish instead of traditional wax, you don’t get the thick, heavy white haze, just a light hazing, which allows for easy removal.

Buff a small section with a clean, dry, soft cloth to a brilliant, high gloss; shake out the cloth to remove any access and continue. A change of cloths may also be needed if cloth has been used repeatedly. When the car has been completed, examine the vehicle from an angle to check for any water spots or polish residue; if any remain, rebuff with another clean cloth and detailing spray. The next day after polishing it is also a good idea to clean your windows with a glass cleaner to removing any access.

A spray wax is also a great way to keep your vehicle brilliant looking in between washing and polishing. Biokleen detailing spray is a spray on, wipe off formula that cleans and shines giving you all of the gloss and protection of a polish in a fraction of the time. You can safely remove dust, smudges, fingerprints, bird hits, rain film and water spots. Just mist spray wax on cool, dry finish and buff lightly with a soft cloth.

TIP: All cloths should be washed using only detergent. Do not add any fabric softener to the water or dryer sheets to the dryer. These contain coatings that are transferred to your car cloths and may cause streaks.

Stay tuned for Automotive Detailing Step 5: Cleaning and Protecting Vinyl, Leather and Upholstery Interior

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Pour one ounce of liquid vehicle wash per gallon of water into a bucket. Hot water always increases efficiency. Make sure the surface of your car is cool enough for you to comfortably keep your hand on it. Give the car a gentle spray to thoroughly wet the surface, high pressure will not be needed and may pound the dirt into the paint and cause imperfections. Apply to surface, using a clean sponge, wash brush or mitt. Start at the top and work down washing and rinsing only one section at a time. Before soap dries, rinse with a flow of water (not spray) so water sheets off vehicle’s surface. Continue on down the car, completing a section at a time. This way, the car wash will not dry on the paint. Dry the car as soon as possible. Wipe dry with a chamois. If using a towel, start at the top, lay the towel on the top and then gently blot up the water from the surface. Change to a dry towel and blot any access water.

If you happen to have the unfortunate, but inevitable, bird dropping land on your car, try removing it as soon as possible. Acids in bird droppings are very harmful tend to etch tiny recessions in your paint. Fast removal will help to reduce any harm. Carry around a bottle of detailing spray to safely remove those damaging bird hits and other touch ups. This will give enough lubrication so you will not scratch your paint with the gravel contained within these droppings. Yes gravel. Birds use it to digest their food and if not taken care of properly it can scratch your paint.

Stay tuned for Automotive Detailing Step 4: Waxing, Polishing and Maintaining Your Vehicle’s Surface

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This is the 2nd step in your auto detailing process because, unlike your clear coat paint finish, you don’t want your tires, wheels or rims to be wet prior to applying any cleaner. It is also important not to use the same cleaning brush on your tires and rims and on your paint job. You don’t want any of the small metal fillings that may be stuck in the brush after removing brake dust to scratch your paint finish.

Use an all rims cleaner on wheels, tires and rims. To apply, first be sure that wheels are cool and dry. Spray on wheel, tire and fender wells and let stand 2-5 minutes, allowing longer dwell time and mild agitation with a soft bristle brush for severe build up. Rinse thoroughly.

For non polished aluminum rims, use an aluminum rim cleaner. To apply: spray on, let set for 30 seconds to a few minutes and rinse thoroughly. For severe build up, allow longer dwell time and mild agitation with a soft bristle brush. Re apply as needed. For removing rail dust from your paint, dilute wheel cleaner 50/50 with water. Spray on paint finish let stand for 1 to 2 minutes, rinse thoroughly then wash with liquid vehicle wash (Step 3 of Auto Detailing).

Probably the most crucial part to maintaining your wheels is an application of automotive polish. (Note: Polish should be applied to rims on the 5th and final auto detailing step, apply after cleaning wheels applying tire dressing). The damaging effects of red hot brake dust, brake dust acids, pollution and ozone are unleashed upon the coat of polish instead of your wheels and rims. If you believe your rims need to be shined with a metal polish, first consult the manufacturer.

Stay tuned for Automotive Detailing Step 3: Washing and Drying

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First, to soften grease, start the vehicle’s engine, let it warm up for a few minutes and shut it off. If needed cover areas susceptible to water damage (air intake, distributor, coil and oil dipstick are the main concerns). Be sure to check the tightness of all automotive engine compartment caps then cover with some type of plastic and tighten with rubber bands.

Spray engine degreaser over entire engine and allow dwelling time of about 3-5 minutes. Use a microfiber towel, a cleaning brush or a 100% cotton towel to gently agitate the heavily soiled areas. Re-apply as needed. Rinse thoroughly, but remember, the stronger the spray, the more vulnerable your water sensitive parts; dry any access water and moisture.

Remove protective coverings and start the engine allowing it to warm up. This will dry the rest of the engine and evaporate any moisture that may have collected in the sensitive components. Once the engine is clean, dry and has completely cooled, you may wish to apply a coating of protectant to any rubber or plastic shields.

If the uncoated aluminum areas are dull or have whitish corrosion, using a metal polish will restore the finish and make them shine. It is also a good idea to check the battery terminals, to guarantee that they are clean. If not, disconnect the cables and clean both the cable terminals and battery posts with a wire brush.

Stay tuned for Automotive Detailing; Step 2: Cleaning Wheels, Tires and Rims

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We’ve seen a number of demonstration videos that claim you have to first wet sand the fiberglass surface (sometimes with 2-3 different applications using a finer grade grit each time), then follow up with a heavy compound, sometimes another compound, and then, finally, buff the fiberglass boat hull with a marine polish. Whew! It’s a lot of work, which is why the professionals at marinas and marine detailing businesses charge big bucks to restore the fiberglass on someones boat hull. Granted, if you have some deep scratches in your fiberglass, you’ll need to wet sand those areas first; but with using this process it seems to take out most of those steps.

You can hear the guy in the video on the orbital mention that he’s not using a lot of pressure and it’s getting the job done. He says “with the 3M compound I’d feel like I just got done with a 20 minute workout after 5 minutes of buffing.”  This application with the Bio-Kleen Restore & Shine seems to go pretty quickly and seems easy enough to restore your own fiberglass at home, without taking it to a professional buffing place and shelling out a lot of cash.

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